Beer Tripping: Greenbush Brewery

Breaking his pinky two years ago might have been the best career move of Scott Sullivan’s life. Then a furniture craftsman, Sullivan had a few weeks to kill before he would be able to work again. Hungry for ideas to pass the time, he called a friend with a homebrewing kit that had been collecting dust since his wife gave it to him the previous Christmas, and they spent those few weeks learning how to brew and developing recipes that will be part of the everyday lineup when Sullivan opens Greenbush Brewery in Sawyer, Michigan this May. As Scott wrangles yeast, copper, steel, and oak to get the place ready, he took a few hours out of an afternoon last week to sit down with me, sample his beers, and show me around.

Before you meet the Greenbush beers, here are five reasons you will love this brewery:

1. You will be able to buy Greenbush six-packs in Illinois in the not-too-distant future.
2. It’s getting warmer and the brewery and tasting room in Sawyer is a perfect first-stop on your summer trip to Michigan. Beach, sun, beer, awesome.
3. The menu in the tasting room will feature food from Local, a small grocer in nearby New Buffalo that specializes in sustainable foods and cured meats.
4. Not only is the beer hand-crafted and unique, so is the bar and much of the space. Sullivan built pretty much everything made of wood with his own hands.
5. We’re witnessing the opening chapter of  a story of a hard-working, risk-taking, beer-loving guy that we can follow from the start and wish for success. A nice reverse-bookend to the Goose Island stories of late.

The beers

Traktor - Your lawnmower beer’s badass big brother. This cream ale clocks in at 6.1% and leads with a big malt nose. The body is velvety and sparkling, with light vanilla notes and a smooth malt finish. Refreshing enough to drink under the sun, complex enough to pour indoors.

Anger – A 7.6% black IPA with a big, hoppy aroma. Deep, complex flavor of roasted malt, coffee, and earthy hops. Pours a brooding, garnet-rimmed dark chocolate. Imagine the possibilities: “I’ll have a pint of Anger!”

Distorter – This porter blurs the lines with its heftier stout cousins. Chocolatey, sweet, full-bodied. When Sullivan nailed the recipe, he ran blind tastings with his beer-savvy friends. When they preferred Distorter to well-known and beloved porters, he knew he was onto something. 7.2%

400 Divine Rabbits – Named after the ancient Aztec goddess of fermentation and inebriety who lords over a stable of 400 rabbits, each representing one of the 400 facets of drunkenness. (The history geek in me is giddy.) A seasonal wheat ale brewed with agave nectar. Tart nose. Banana, clove, and tart again through the middle. Great summer beer. 6%

Dunegräs IPA –  A synergy of west coast and German hops. Floral, spicy, fruity bouquet. Biscuity malt, clean finish. 6.7%

1825 – A Belgian strong ale. Great spicy, fruity, yeasty nose. Smooth, medium-bodied. Where’s the 9.3% hiding? Who knows.

Red Bud – I’m not kidding when I say Sullivan is breaking down boundaries. Red Bud is a copper wheat ale that started many iterations ago as a clone of a popular midwestern summer wheat. Creamy, herbal. Vanguard hops and a wisp of nutmeg. 6.7%

Closure – A single-hop pale ale brewed with the enigmatic Sorachi Ace hop from Japan. Sullivan had a limited supply and decided to backload the hops into the flavor and aroma instead of the bitter. A wise move. Paired with Canadian honey malt, which is spot on and adds a nice complement to the distinctive hop variety. Smacks of honey, honeydew, cantaloupe, and Crenshaw. Lemony, effervescent, slightly herbal. Yummy.

Retribution – A Belgian ale brewed with golden sugar, raisins, and dates. An homage to Lagunitas Brown Shugga and Dogfish Head Raison D’etre. Super complex. Amber-garnet pour. Oak and cabernet in the nose. Roasted malt, dark fruit, warming alcohol sweetness. Yes, yes, yes. 8.3%

Here’s to hoping that Greenbush pushes its space to capacity as soon as possible. Sullivan is looking at an initial clip of 2,000 barrels/ year and ramping up to 7,000 pretty quickly. Get your hands on a sixer, a growler, a pony, or a pint and enjoy. I know I will.

Web: greenbushbrewing.com
Facebook: facebook.com/greenbush-brewing-co
Twitter: @greenbush_brew

Address:
5885 Sawyer Road
Sawyer, MI 49125